The Victoria Highway to the Western Australia border

Timber Creek

On leaving Darwin, we had to head back down the Stuart Highway to Katherine, to pick up the Victoria Highway across to Western Australia.   We stopped overnight at Timber Creek which is halfway between Katherine and the Western Australia border.  This is the heart of croc country and it was a little unnerving to see a freshwater crocodile basking on the bank of the creek at the back of the campsite.

Locals don’t seem too worried about the ‘freshies’.  Winston didn’t get a walk that night though!

The Border

There’s a quarantine checkpoint on the NT/Western Australia border.  We had our quarantine booklet and I was confident the 2 ½ Bradshaws were compliant as I showed the inspector our fruit and veg.  However he said he would have to confiscate our tomatoes and cucumber, and potatoes had to be peeled and cooked.  Jonathan said I shouldn’t have quoted the booklet at him but it was incorrect.  Not willing to hand over our food, we pulled into the rest area for a salad lunch and boiled up the potatoes before heading on through.

We were heading for the campsite at Lake Argyle, Australia’s largest freshwater lake.  We only realised that Western Australia is 1 ½ hrs behind the NT when we arrived at reception and saw the clock.   We are now only 7 hrs ahead of the UK.  It was a little disappointing to find that the campsite wasn’t actually on the lakeside although after reading it’s home to 30,000 freshwater crocodiles, maybe that was a good thing.  Jonathan didn’t hold out any hope of catching a barra with that lot in there.  The weather is pretty much perfect at the moment.  The temperature doesn’t go above 30 degrees during the day and it cools down at night.  Back in Alice Springs, it’s now dropping below zero at night.

 

We sat with drinks and watched the sunset over the lake while listening to Steve Case, a travelling performer.  He could do with adding a few cheery songs to his repertoire.  It felt strange that the sun was going down at 5pm.

 

A tropical sunset

The Mindil Beach Sunset Market is held every Thursday and Sunday.  This was listed as the must do market in the tourist brochure, mainly because you can buy dinner from one of the many food stalls and then sit on the beach watching the sun go down – with hundreds of other people though!  It reminded us of being on the beach during the total eclipse of the Sun in Cairns in 2012.

We didn’t buy our dinner from this one. We had a very tasty Bangladeshi curry

11,000 km later – the 2 ½ Bradshaws reach the Top End

What a journey it’s been, all the way up the Stuart Highway from Adelaide to Darwin, with a detour to Uluru.

We arrived in Darwin on Tuesday and are staying at a Barramundi fishing and conservation park on the outskirts.  It has everything to keep the 2 ½ Bradshaws happy.  Winston can run around off leash with the owners’ two corgis and have a cooling dip in the lake.  There’s a tinnie for campers’ use which Jonathan takes out to try and catch a Barra for supper.  It’s lovely and peaceful and I can sit reading, watching the birdlife and taking photographs.

At the Darwin Italian Festival – missing my little Fiat.

Darwin’s year round temperature is consistently around 32 degrees C and the seasons in the Top End are referred to as Wet and Dry.  May to October is the peak visitor time during the dry season when the night time temperature can drop to a cool 20 degrees.  We’re also now in croc country. The crocodylus porosus or saltwater crocodile is known as a ‘saltie’ in the Top End and it’s definitely at the top of the food chain.  The highest concentration in Australia is around Darwin and the river systems to the south.  After being hunted nearly to extinction, they are now a protected species in Australia and there is estimated to be 200,000 of them in the wild.

We saw possibly the most famous saltie of all – a 5 metre male called Sweetheart who is stuffed and on display at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.

Whilst I can’t say I’m a fan of salties, I did feel sorry for old ‘Sweetheart’.   He terrorised boaties in the 1970s, and in 1979, it was decided to catch him and keep him in captivity.   They gave him a sedative but thought it hadn’t worked as he was still active.  What they didn’t realise was, it had shut down the system which prevents crocs from drowning.  Sweetheart became tangled underwater and slowly drowned.

The taxidermist given the task of stuffing Sweetheart actually took home some of the meat for dinner.  Here’s a link to this very interesting story:  http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-08-04/the-darwin-sweetheart-crocodile-taxidermy-story/7587666

Sweetheart then went on a tour of Australia to promote the Northern Territory, though I’m not sure how telling people you’ve got dangerous saltwater crocodiles persuades them to visit!

The other particularly interesting exhibit at the museum tells the story of Cyclone Tracy which devastated Darwin on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day 1974.  The cyclone reached wind speeds of over 200 km/hr and destroyed over 70% of buildings in the city.  Seventy-one people lost their lives.  They have a dark, sound proof booth where you can hear a recording of the cyclone at its height.

Jonathan flew to Australia with his mum in January 1975 and can remember their plane being diverted to Darwin to pick up evacuees.